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Time line: June 2003,Portland, Oregon
Jose Angel teamed with me, Michael Watson and together we formed Sierra
Alta de la Costa Sur Specialty Coffee, LLC to market the coffee beans grown on
theAbrica family farm in Chanquiahuitl, Ejido Ayotitlan, Mexico. After
a year of research and study, both Jose and I went to West Central Mexico to help
harvest the coffee beans with his family. Some of the plants he recalled planting
10 years prior. Some Arabica bushes on the Abrica farm are over one hundred and
fifty years old and still produce. I
was going on a working vacation. Arriving in
Mexico I found conditions worse than I had thought. Farmers working hard dawn
to dusk for less than three pesos a kilo for coffee cherries, out of which the
pickers were paid. But for them just hearing that their son and a gringo were
interested in their coffee and coming down to visit was enough to inspire them
to work on, just in case their big break was coming. Around
that time Fresh Cup magazine was holding the
NASCORE coffee trade show in Portland, Oregon, so we invited some coffee farmers
to take part in the booth and to exchange ideas with their peers in the coffee
industry, to witness first hand the fervor about good organic coffee. Excitement
filled the hills in anticipation although spirits were still very much dampened
by the seemingly endless downward spiral the coffee market was experiencing over
the past ten years. Getting the finances to pay for the exhibitors'
booth, the travel expenses for the farmers to come to Oregon, visas, food and
lodging was not easy but we did it!! Donations were solicited from various organizations,
private coffee houses and individuals interested in helping. Xavier
Figueroa Orozco a coffee grower co-op member and local communitarian from Cuautitlan
made it to Portland and to NASCOR that year. It was a trip that
proved beneficial to all the coffee growers in Sierra Manantlan; for from this
trip was born a new processing facility for the Union of Cafetaleros Selectivo
de la Sierra de Manantlan. The facilities are located in Chancol, a center for
the indigenous people of the region. This
story really begins in the 1970's-1980s When
the powerful Mexican drug cartels forced the farmers into slave labor conditions
the young boys did not get to go to school for they were needed in the fields
to grow raw opium that was processed for heroin production. Jose
was taught math by his mother using a jar full of beans. He had no shoes he remembers.
This went on for years until the Mexican government banished the cartels from
the area and encouraged the farmers to plant more coffee to increase the production
of legal crops. The coffee crisis was also getting under way with historically
low prices for green coffee beans worldwide. The "desperate men
do desperate acts" mind set seemed to rule as farmers would put the plots their
family had worked for generations up as collateral for $1,200.00 to $2,000.00
needed to pay the "coyotes" to smuggle them across the border into the United
States. We've heard the horror stories of semi tractor trailers packed with people
being locked and left in the scorching deserts of the southwest killing most if
not all before they are found. Many were coffee farmers. The collateral
loan on the farm comes due, the farm is lost and the family disappears into the
impoverished outskirts of the major cities of Mexico. A
Man in search for his personal power Jose Angel
was one who left home to find the good life beyond the frontier to the north.
And he found the Mexican /American Dream. A wife who bore two beautiful boys,
a good job and the opportunity to make enough money working as a roofer in the
construction field to support his family in the USA and to send money each month
to his family in Mexico. As can happen; things began to change for
him. Being blamed for crimes he did not commit cost him his job for a company
he helped start. But with no immigration papers he could not go to the authorities.
Home life got harder without his good job and he sent his wife and boys to her
relatives in California, just until he could get back on his feet. Obsessed with
the shame he felt because he could no longer support his families in California
.and in Mexico he lost contact and became estranged from both. By
happenstance I took interest in Jose and offered to help in some way his situation.
He was more concerned about his family than himself and to the point of distraction
he worried silently that perhaps he may never see his family again. He wrote his
wife and boys almost every day but never mailed the letters.
Continued in next collomn |
continued Boyhood
Memories Jose told me stories of back home how
magical and great his Mother and father are, and the mountains where he was raised
he told me were enchanted. I needed to see first hand this place called Sierra
Manantlan. I wanted to see what sounded to me like an impoverished paradise complete
with the magic of Brujos, cattle rustling and wild west adventures.
On the road Jose and I packed
up and flew to Guadalajara, Mexico. Then we took a 2 hour bus ride from there
to a State and city called Colima. Colima, Colima! In Colima Jose convinced a
taxi driver that it wasn't too far to his father's ranch, just outside Minatitlan.
Two and a half hours later in complete darkness we get out and start
walking, the taxi could only take us as far as the road went. From there we walked
to his Mom's house, still up the hill a piece. When we reached his place of birth
a one level low slung adobe block structure he woke his parents whom he had not
seen for eight years. What hospitality, from a sound sleep his mom
awoke to building a small fire to brew us coffee on a wood cook stove affair.
It seemed to be a growth protruding from the earthen floor only to blend back
into the floor before the floor extended into and up the wall. A skin of earth
was over everything. They had no complaints just so happy to see us. I knew then
that I was along ways from Kansas, Dorothy. I am not
sure I slept that night. In
the morning The morning brought my first experience
of being not only a racial minority but the first white skinned outsider many
of the children had ever seen. This was very humbling experience for me. The
mornings also brought the hustle and hurry of trying to document and understand
this culture of the Aromatic One. I only had a week to capture all this and to
form a marketing strategy for the coffee beans, after all that is why we came.
On horse back we rode off up the trails through the forested slopes
and to the coffee growing areas. Before I knew it I was smack dab in the middle
of more coffee plants than I imagined there were. The coffee bushes, protected
and nourished by an over story of broad leaf shade producing trees of a strategic
type planted in a strategic manner to benefit and coexist in symbiotic harmony
with the insects, the animals, birds and people. In
the mountains In the mountains of Mexico they
call it life; in our civilized world it's referred to as "Biodiversity" Or "Sustainability".
In the mountains of Mexico there lives a hardy gentle people who
have heard that in the USA a cup of coffee can sell for as much as $4.00 and there
are coffee shops on every corner making huge profits from a product that at the
grower level was almost a waste of time and energy to cultivate let alone pay
to harvest it. In the mountains of Mexico I never once heard children
cry because they could not have something they wanted, yet these people have nothing
more than the bare necessities. One
year later I returned alone to Mexico and the
farm of my most gracious hosts Querino and Josefina Abrica. It was great to see
my friends again, Tio Pedro, who I liken to John Wayne and Javier Martinez, a
kind gentle man who runs the nursery for the Cafe Chanquiahuitl Co-op. Alicia,
the President of Café Chanquiahuitl Co-op and her husband Crispin and daughter
Shellie treated me as family feeding and housing me. They run the Mercado Disconsa,
the only place for basic supplies save an hour and a half drive to town. This
year I spent two months with my friends, in addition, I was fortunate enough to
meet Modesto Aguilar Arias, a local veterinary doctor who is also a member of
Parota Cuata Co-op growing and processing Organic coffee beans, Honey, Oranges
and Beef. Have you ever tasted honey made from the pollen of the
Arabica flower? Truly a treat to behold! This year my new friend
came north to Coffee Fest 2005 in Las Vegas, NV. representing Parota Cuata Co-op
in the Sierra Alta Coffee booth. Our intentions are to keep putting
the coffee beans and growers out there to gain name familiarity and to let the
coffee consumers discover for themselves how good this coffee is from a region
of Mexico called The Sierra Manantlan Biosphere Reserve. We
are growing Sierra Alta Coffee now has an office
in Minatitlan, Colima, Mexico. Minatitlan is the gateway to the Sierra Manantlan
Biosphere Reserve. A relatively undiscovered and unexplored region of Mexico for
many North Americans. This area is so conducive to Eco-travel that
a group of the locals led by a fearless woman, Susana, are establishing a company
to offer tours of the coffee growing farms in the area. With rustic cabanas for
lodging and authentic Mexican meals flavored with the local culture for dining
these tours constitute a true cultural emersion life experience. Other
sight seeing and participation tours are in the making. A perfect side trip if
you're vacationing at Manzanillo Beach, a resort area on the Pacific Coast only
45 minutes away. There
will always be more to a story like this one! Please
visit our web pages at www.lacostasur.com |
COFFEE
FEST LAS VEGAS
2005 This
year Sierra Alta Coffee participated in the Coffee Fest by purchasing an exhibitors
booth space to display and give samplrs of the fine Organic coffee from La Costa
Sur Brand Coffee. This years guest farmer was Modesto Aguilar Arias from the Parota
Cuata Co-op at Convento, Colima.
OFFERING Updated
July 1,2005
CO-OP---------- GRADE------------- LOCATION-----------AVAILABLE ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAFÉ CHANQUIAHUITL : CAFÉ ORO DE AYALA / Select/ Natural
/ Portland, OR. spot Café Convento / Parota Cuata: ARABICA
ALTURA / Prime Washed/ Portland, OR / spot Ejido Ayotitlan/ Chancol:
Union de Cafetaleros grown and processed call Cerro Prieto: capulin
dried in cherry. call |
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NEWS FROM THE FIELDS: _________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This year marks the completion of the processing facility at Chancol
in the Ejido de Ayotitlan. The hard working Xavier Orosco and others of the Rural
Development Department of the government of Cuautitlan, Jalisco and his untiring
efforts as a true Communitarian working to improve the plight of the indigenous
people and the Sierra Manantlan Biosphere Reserve has brought this great accomplishment
to fruitation. Last year he traveled up to Portland, Oregon to attend the NASCORE
convention last year, Sierra Alta provided an exhibitor booth to show and give
the attendees a sample taste of this coffee. We did generate enough interest and
attention to persuade the government of the State of Jalisco to donate the money
needed to complete a first class processing facility for the Union de Café selectiva
de la Sierra Manantlan. Sierra Alta de la Costa Sur Coffee feels the pride of
pitching in to accomplish this dream of those people. This year we visited Chancol
for meetings with the State Officials and finally to witness the installation
of the new equipment and demonstration of it working. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ La
Parota Cuata co-op is a first class operation we found hidden in the mountains
behind the small town of Minatitlan, Colima. Nested at the foot of a high peak
in the community of Convento (pop. 26) they produce, in addition to the cleanest
top quality 100% Arabica Altura, Organic Honey and Organic Beef that could almost
make a Carnivore out of a Vegan. They are working on a honey made predominantly
of Arabica flower blossoms. We look forward to this true specialty product for
the flowering cycle of coffee is very short. ________________________________________________________________________________________________________
While down here in Mexico this year we have met with many farmers and reserved
such a wide variety of delightful tasting beans. A group of women in Cerro
Prieto who have small batches of fresh beans dried in cherry form (capulin).
Some coffee aficionados enjoy the unique sweetness this acquires from allowing
the pulp a longer time to interact with the bean. So for a real distinctive flavor
treat we purchased a few quintals of these for you. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Also in this years purchase is several bags (60 kilos each) of Pulped Natural
beans from Café Chanquiahuitl co-op which possess’ a sweet medium bodied
cup. We have also reserved considerable amounts of Wet-Processed beans or Prime
Washed , producing a cleaner, brighter and fruitier cup from a new processing
facility in the tiny coffee growing community of Convento. Watch this name become
a commonly requested coffee house brand. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________
We are always looking for new exciting regions to explore in search of those hidden
and often overlooked "Treasures of the Sierra Madre". We attempt to expose to
the world coffee plantations and farms which are being left out of circulation
due to the "big names" in the coffee buyer world who have got the public stuck
on their pet brands. The coffee drinking public owes it to themselves to join
us on the quest for the obscure, not in the forefront farmers who continue in
their struggle of life sustenance and recognition of their hard work to maintain
a sustainable existence for their children to be proud of . Teaching them to love
and respect thier environment. All of the coffees featured by Sierra Alta Coffee
is Certified Organic and Shade grown by grower co-ops producing on 5 hectares
or less, paying all help above local wages for their work. Join us for a cup of
coffee you’ve never tasted before. Samples will be provided for wholesale companies
who would like to share with their customers an exquisite new taste treat on Sierra
Alta for the betterment of the small grower and their community enrichment programs.
Sierra Alta only keeps enough proceeds for operating costs with the remainder
going to the unions, co-ops and community projects helping the children with educational
opportunity, food and clothing. We are a transparent organization and our books
are open to interested qualified parties in the industry. |